By appointment to His Majesty The King  ·  Est. 1777  ·  Hertfordshire, England
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Brush Guide

Detangling Fine or Thinning Hair
Without Breakage

Fine hair parts with less force than coarse hair; the strand is simply narrower. Much of what is put down to "weak hair" is in truth the fault of the brush: too stiff, applied to wet hair, and drawn from the root downwards. Amend those three habits and the brush will hold noticeably less of your hair within a few weeks.

Start from the ends, not the roots

A knot pulled from above only draws tighter, as knots will. Begin instead with the last few centimetres, clear them, and move upward a section at a time, so that every stroke finishes in hair that is already open below it. Of all the advice in this guide, this single habit preserves the most hair.

Wet hair deserves particular tenderness. Water loosens the hydrogen bonds within keratin, and a wet fine strand will stretch and part at a fraction of its dry strength. Press the hair gently in a towel first, and detangle it damp rather than dripping.

The right tools for fragile hair

Two tools cover nearly every situation. The first is a detangling brush with flexible, widely spaced quills that bend around a knot rather than tearing through it. The second is a saw-cut comb with polished, rounded teeth, and the polish is the point: a moulded comb carries a faint seam down every tooth that shaves a little of the cuticle with each pass.

Between detangling, a pure bristle brush will draw the scalp’s own oil along each strand without pulling: a kindness to hair that is thinning, when every strand kept matters.

A simple daily routine

In the morning, detangle from the ends with the detangler, and finish with a few smoothing strokes of bristle. At night, the smoothing strokes again; the old counsel about brushing before bed was always about moving oil, and fine hair repays it with shine sooner than any other type. After washing, towel the hair gently, allow one careful pass of a wide-toothed comb from the ends upward, and then leave it quite alone until it is dry.

Common questions

Does brushing make thinning hair fall out faster?

No. The hairs left in the brush after gentle strokes had already reached the end of their term; the harm is done by rough brushing that snaps healthy strands midway. A light hand removes only what was ready to fall and leaves the rest in peace.

Should fine hair be brushed wet or dry?

Dry or damp, and never dripping, for wet is when the strand is weakest. If you must detangle straight after washing, towel the hair first and use a wide-toothed comb, beginning at the ends.

How many strokes a day is right?

The old hundred-strokes rule may be retired without regret. A dozen deliberate strokes will detangle and distribute the oil; beyond that one is merely adding friction.

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